Masterpieces of Time

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Camouflage 41mm

Audemars Piguet introduces two new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models, featuring unique camouflage patterns with 861 baguette gemstones in shades of blue or green, brown, and black. Share

Audemars Piguet, the illustrious Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer, continues to elevate its creative prowess with the introduction of two exceptional 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models. These models are characterized by an unprecedented camouflage pattern that extends seamlessly from the dial to the case and bracelet, showcasing an industry-first application of 861 meticulously selected and custom-cut baguette gemstones in graduated shades of blue or a mix of green, brown, and black tones.

Audemars Piguet’s exploration of camouflage motifs began in 2018 with the Royal Oak Offshore models featuring rubber straps. This year, the motif has been reimagined through the intricate art of gemsetting, demonstrating the brand’s dedication to avant-garde aesthetics and pioneering spirit. Each of the two new models is adorned with a distinct palette: one with graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz totalling approximately 44.32 carats, and the other with black sapphires, various shades of tsavorites, and smoky quartz totalling around 39.91 carats.

The selection and arrangement of these gemstones involved a rigorous quality control process to meet Audemars Piguet’s stringent standards for colour, clarity, and overall harmony. Each stone’s purity and gemological nature were verified by an external laboratory, ensuring the utmost quality and brilliance. This meticulous attention to detail is evident in every aspect of the design, from the architectural precision of the cut stones to their seamless integration into the watch’s structure.

The craftsmanship extends to the use of the intricate technique known as invisible setting, employed for the dial, bracelet links, and certain case elements. This technique involves carving tiny grooves into the baguette gemstones, which are then carefully snapped into a hidden rail within the gold component, creating the illusion that the stones are self-supporting. Achieving perfect alignment and symmetry is a painstaking task that requires exceptional skill and precision. The dial alone features 152 gemstones cut in 28 different sizes, set against a gold plate thin enough to highlight their brilliance without overshadowing the gemsetting artistry.

Powered by the latest-generation Calibre 4309, these timepieces embody the fusion of technical excellence and aesthetic innovation. The self-winding movement, developed specifically for this diameter, omits the date indication to prioritize the gemsetting on the dial. Its stability and precision are ensured by a patented mechanism, while a generous 70-hour power reserve caters to contemporary lifestyles. The movement’s rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight and Haute Horlogerie decorations, such as Côtes de Genève and polished chamfers, can be admired through the sapphire casebacks, showcasing the intricate workmanship beneath the surface.

Audemars Piguet’s legacy in high-jewellery timepieces dates back to collaborations with prestigious brands like Tiffany, Cartier, Oscar Heyman, and Bvlgari, which involved casing movements in unique Haute Joaillerie creations. From the late 19th century until the 1970s, the brand frequently sold movements and dials to jewellers who designed and signed the external watch cases before selling them through their networks. The 1960s and 1970s marked an era of creative exploration, with watches featuring natural stone dials combined with other gemstones on the case and bracelet.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Camouflage 41mm

In the 1980s, the trend for watches with welded bracelets led Audemars Piguet to establish its own jewellery workshop, allowing for greater control and creativity in gemset timepieces. This in-house expertise paved the way for the Haute Joaillerie collection launched in 2013, which includes distinctive pieces like the Diamond Trilogy and the Sapphire Orbe, breaking traditional notions of gemset watches and showcasing the brand’s artistic ingenuity.

Today, gemsetting permeates Audemars Piguet’s collections, from bezels adorned with an array of precious stones to timepieces entirely paved with diamonds or coloured gems. The 2022 Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow Sets exemplify this trend, featuring ten white gold timepieces each set with a different baguette-cut coloured gemstone, forming a captivating rainbow when placed side by side.

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