Bvlgari Serpenti Pallini High-Jewelry

For the past decade, Bulgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo watches have garnered widespread acclaim, but Bulgari’s true legacy lies in its high-jewellery creations, particularly the iconic Serpenti collection. Bulgari’s Serpenti watches, adorned with gemstones, flexible Tubogas straps, and even tourbillons, have become synonymous with the brand’s creative spirit. At this year’s Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari unveiled a new trilogy of Serpenti Pallini jewellery watches, all featuring the brand’s miniature Piccolissimo calibre. This trilogy draws inspiration from Bulgari’s historical designs, with the Pallini beads adding an exquisite layer of movement and sparkle.

Bulgari introduced its first Serpenti watch in the late 1940s, featuring the now-famous Tubogas coiled bracelet. By the mid-1950s, the Serpenti evolved to incorporate more lifelike features, with the snake’s head cleverly concealing the watch dial beneath a hinged cover. The new trilogy of Serpenti Pallini watches is inspired by a 1955 five-turn bracelet watch, adorned with tiny yellow gold beads and diamonds, complete with emerald eyes on a platinum head.

The three Serpenti Pallini watches coil twice around the wrist, with the scales composed of either small gold beads or brilliant-cut diamonds. Each bead or diamond is meticulously set on a gold mesh, using a technique inspired by the en tremblant method, a decorative style that originated in 18th-century France. This method, revived by Bulgari in the 1950s and 1960s for its jewellery, gives the pieces a unique tremor-like movement, adding dynamism to the already captivating designs.

Serpenti Pallini (104027)

This model introduces the Serpenti Pallini in yellow gold, featuring an articulated bracelet adorned with gold beads that shimmer with movement. The yellow gold design has a vintage flair, while the white gold tail is set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The snake’s head, set with two pear-shaped emerald eyes, opens to reveal a dial with a mother-of-pearl background, diamond indices, and green hands, echoing the emerald eyes.

Serpenti Pallini (104026)

Taking the opulence up a notch, this model in rose gold features pallini beads interspersed with brilliant-cut diamonds. The white gold tail and snake’s head are adorned with larger diamonds, while the pear-cut emerald eyes add a vibrant contrast. The dial is pavé-set with diamonds, matching the glittering mouth cavity of the snake.

Serpenti Pallini (104025)

The pinnacle of this high-jewellery collection is the fully diamond-encrusted white gold model, boasting an astounding 66.31 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds. The pallini beads sparkle with every movement, and larger diamonds adorn the snake’s tail and head. As with the other models, the pear-cut emerald eyes provide a striking pop of colour amidst the glittering diamonds.

At the heart of the Serpenti Pallini collection is Bulgari’s miniature marvel, the Piccolissimo calibre. This tiny mechanical movement, created in Bulgari’s Le Sentier manufacture, is the smallest round mechanical movement ever made by the brand. Measuring just 2.55mm in thickness and weighing a mere 1.30 grams, the Piccolissimo calibre beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour (vph) and has a power reserve of 30 hours. An ingenious design allows the dial to swivel by half a turn, so the watch can be worn on either wrist, offering flexibility and functionality in addition to its stunning aesthetic.