Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti Collection

Bvlgari has partnered with MB&F to create the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti — their second collaboration, following the success of the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra in 2021. The partnership between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, brings together two distinct approaches to watchmaking. Their shared passion for pushing boundaries led to a reinterpretation of Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti, originally introduced in 1948. The result is a watch collection that integrates Serpenti’s symbolism with MB&F’s history with art.

“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce,” said Buonamassa Stigliani. “Our goal was to present a completely fresh vision of Serpenti. It is no longer just a feminine symbol but a technical object that bridges Bvlgari’s aesthetic with MB&F’s expertise.”

According to Buonamassa Stigliani, the design process was extensive, involving hundreds of sketches and numerous 3D-printed models. The complexity of the case design meant that every adjustment impacted the overall structure, requiring multiple refinements to achieve the perfect balance from every viewing angle.

Once the design was finalised, manufacturing the case and movement posed significant technical challenges. Unlike traditional round cases, the Serpenti’s structure features intricate curves and multiple sapphire crystals. Each of the five sapphire elements, including those forming the eyes and rear facets, required precision machining and an anti-reflective coating on both sides. Achieving 30-meter water resistance in such an elaborate construction added another layer of complexity. The case, entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills, had to accommodate the curved sapphire elements, a feat that required both ingenuity and perseverance.

Inside the case, one of Buonamassa Stigliani’s key concepts was to animate Serpenti’s eyes, which has been realised through revolving hour and minute domes. The left dome completes a full rotation in 12 hours, while the right dome rotates every 60 minutes. To keep the domes light, they are machined from solid aluminium, an intricate process that ensures optimal weight distribution. Each dome is hand-finished with Super-LumiNova, giving the watch an unmistakable glow in the dark.

At the heart of the movement is an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, equipped with four traditional regulating screws, oscillating at 2.5Hz (18,000bph). A three-dimensional balance bridge secures the movement while showcasing both brands’ names. Winding and time-setting are controlled by two crowns discreetly placed within the rear lugs.

Flipping the watch over reveals a power reserve indicator, along with other elements of the 310-component movement. True to MB&F’s philosophy, each component is hand-finished, a labour-intensive process that allows for the production of only six to eight movements per month. With just 99 pieces available, full production will take over a year to complete.

While Serpenti remains the primary inspiration, both Buonamassa Stigliani and Büsser are passionate about automotive design, an influence subtly embedded in this watch. The stepped sapphire crystal mirrors the design of the supercar rear windows, while the crowns resemble car wheels. Even the exposed movement includes elements reminiscent of engine grilles with Bvlgari’s signature hexagonal pattern.

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in three variations, each limited to 33 pieces: a grade 5 titanium case with a blue hour and minute domes, an 18K rose gold case with green domes, and a black PVD-coated stainless steel case with red domes.