Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

Daniel Roth, an influential figure in independent watchmaking, played a pivotal role in reviving Breguet and initiating the resurgence of high-end mechanical watchmaking after the quartz crisis. Following his impressive comeback last year with the Tourbillon Souscription, a homage to the original Tourbillon C187, Daniel Roth continues his story with the release of the Tourbillon in rose gold. This marks the model’s return as a permanent addition to the collection, featuring subtle yet distinct updates.

Daniel Roth’s journey is both complex and fascinating. Raised in his grandfather’s watchmaking workshop in Switzerland and trained in France, Roth began his career at Audemars Piguet before encountering the Chaumet brothers, who owned Breguet at the time. Tasked with reviving the Breguet name, Roth spearheaded the creation of a neo-classical collection that became iconic. After leaving Breguet, Roth launched his own brand in the late 1980s, producing watches that quickly became collector’s items. In 1994, Roth sold the majority of his shares to The Hour Glass Group, and by 2000, the brand had been acquired by Bulgari.

Among the many watches produced under the Daniel Roth brand, the most prized and collectible are those created during Roth’s independent years from 1988 to 1994, particularly the Tourbillon C187. This masterpiece showcased Roth’s signature double-ellipse case, guilloche dial, and a high-end movement featuring a one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Its design, with Roman numerals, blued hands, and a triple 20-second scale, became a defining characteristic of the brand.

Building on the success of this model, Roth introduces the Tourbillon Rose Gold, now a permanent part of the collection, offering a fresh interpretation while retaining the elegance and craftsmanship of its predecessors. The case of the new Tourbillon Rose Gold retains the emblematic double-ellipse design, measuring 38.6mm by 35.5mm, with a slim profile of 9.2mm. Although slightly larger than the original C187, the watch maintains its compact elegance, with shorter, downward-angled lugs for improved wrist comfort. The refined case design ensures that the watch feels comfortable yet visually commanding on the wrist.

The most notable update is the transition from yellow gold to 5N rose gold, offering a warmer and more modern look. According to Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of the brand, this shift in material brings a softer contrast between the rose gold case and the dial’s silvered accents. Paired with a light brown strap, this iteration exudes a sophisticated tone-on-tone aesthetic. The dial, made from solid 5N rose gold, features applied chapters and scales in sterling silver.

The Tourbillon Rose Gold opts for black-coated stainless steel hands and glossy black lacquered markings, creating a sleek and cohesive design. The visible portion of the main plate beneath the tourbillon is finished with Geneva stripes. This new version brings back the linear guilloche pattern, a hallmark of Roth’s later designs. The dial is crafted in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen’s atelier, using a manually operated straight-line engine that engraves each vertical line by hand.

A standout feature of the original C187 was the prominently displayed tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a design element that was innovative at the time. The Tourbillon Rose Gold preserves this layout, with the tourbillon secured by a rounded, black-polished steel bridge. The off-centred hours and minutes are positioned at 12 o’clock, and the tourbillon is equipped with a three-arm hand for indicating the small seconds.

The calibre DR001, developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini of La Fabrique du Temps LV, powers the Tourbillon Rose Gold. This hand-wound movement, with 19 jewels, beats at 3Hz and offers an 80-hour power reserve. Traditional in its design, the movement is devoid of exotic complications, focusing on classic craftsmanship. The tourbillon mechanism is supported by a curved bridge of black-polished steel, with its pivot jewel set in a gold chaton.

With hand-applied decorations such as Geneva stripes, perlage, and mirror-polished bevelled edges, the wheel driving the tourbillon is held in place by a curved steel bridge, while a black-polished steel winding click sits atop the barrel, adding a subtle auditory element to the experience. The Tourbillon Rose Gold will be produced in greater numbers, with each watch individually numbered starting from 21. Despite being part of the permanent collection, the handcrafted nature of the watch means that no more than 50 pieces will be made each year, ensuring its exclusivity.