De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

Imagine gazing at the night sky, where every star twinkles with precision and beauty. Now, imagine wearing that same celestial wonder on your wrist. De Bethune’s new DB25GMT Starry Varius is a stunning blend of traditional craftsmanship and advanced technology, marking the arrival of the brand’s 29th in-house calibre. Known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking, De Bethune has integrated its first-ever GMT complication into the iconic DB25 Starry Varius, offering globetrotters an elegant and functional timepiece.

Designed during a time when travel had become nearly impossible, the DB25GMT Starry Varius was created as a nod to those who eagerly awaited the day when they could resume their journeys. This watch makes it easy to stay connected with loved ones around the globe, displaying both home and local times with clarity and ease.

“What on earth was I thinking of in working on a new GMT travel watch while all the countries of the world were entering lockdown? I am pleased that it is now finished, and that all the nomads of the planet can finally resume their journey,” said Denis Flageollet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune.

The DB25GMT Starry Varius retains the characteristic elements of the collection, with a polished grade 5 titanium case, 42mm in diameter, openworked lugs, and a starry sky on the dial featuring a meticulously crafted Milky Way. Despite housing a complex GMT movement, it remains sleek and elegant on the wrist. This watch’s user-friendly design and flawless execution make it a smart and sophisticated choice for those who value both beauty and practicality.

The dial is designed for optimal readability and balance. Starting from the center, the first disc displays the date with a jumping hand that can be easily adjusted via a corrector at the 6 o’clock position. The time at home is indicated by a floating microsphere on a 24-hour scale, which can be set using the crown. This microsphere, a De Bethune hallmark, changes color to represent day and night, turning at 6am and 6pm to mimic the sunrise and sunset. Local time, displayed by blued hands that follow the curve of the dial, is also set via the crown, making this timepiece both functional and intuitive for travellers.

The GMT function, despite its complexity, is incredibly simple to use, with all functions arranged concentrically. The reference time is set with the crown, while the microsphere displays home time in a dual-color format—blue and pink—to show day and night. This poetic representation adds a unique charm to the watch, a hallmark of De Bethune’s attention to detail and aesthetics. The second time zone is indicated by the blued hour hand, which can be adjusted separately from the reference time, making it easy to keep track of local time while travelling.

At the center of the dial, the watch offers a beautiful interpretation of the sky during both day and night. A polished pink gold sun shines over the microlight surface, while the opposite side features a delicate depiction of the night sky, complete with white gold stars set into the blued titanium dial. The Milky Way is created using micro laser strokes and adorned with 24-carat gold leaf, offering a miniature cosmos to admire.

Beneath the watch’s elegant facade lies an impressive technical achievement. The back of the case, visible through a sapphire crystal, reveals the innovative titanium balance with white gold inlays. This component neutralises temperature fluctuations through its interaction with the balance spring, which is equipped with the “De Bethune” flat terminal curve. The movement also features a silicon escape wheel for increased efficiency and reduced weight, improving the watch’s overall performance.

The DB25GMT Starry Varius is powered by the hand-wound Calibre DB2507, De Bethune’s 29th movement, boasting a five-day power reserve. The calibre features a triple pare-chute system that provides enhanced shock absorption and stability, ensuring the longevity and accuracy of the movement. The two barrels are partially visible through the caseback, and they use a self-regulating energy system to maintain the watch’s long power reserve. This timepiece exemplifies De Bethune’s commitment to technical mastery, combining a complex mechanical movement with an artistic display that evokes the beauty of the cosmos.