De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon

Blending the elegant demeanour of DB28XP with the visual appeal of the DB28 Kind of Blue, De Bethune recently introduced the DB28XP Kind of Blue—an exceptional timepiece, limited to 25 pieces, an evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune. It combines the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a completely blue look, inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue, and bearing the Manufacture’s signature.

The dial of the DB28XP Kind of Blue is all about levels of interpretation, reliefs, and the interplay of light with shadows and reflections. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time, and light at first glance. Its deep and luminous blue is achieved through the natural oxidation of the material, making each watch a unique work of art.

The dial, entirely made of Microlight, reimagines and modernizes the traditional guilloché technique. On its expansive flat surface, this technique gains new meaning and enhances the structure. By playing with shadow and light, it adds depth and delivers a more architectural and dynamic result, giving the overall effect a more contemporary feel. De Bethune opened a chapter in the world of ultra-thin watches in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP, celebrating ten years of mechanical and aesthetic research and work. In his pursuit of an ultra-thin timepiece, Denis Flageollet envisioned it as both a technical and aesthetic challenge.

The manual-winding movement DB2115v12 is equipped with the De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to its opening at 6 o’clock. It is the result of De Bethune’s constant physical and mathematical approach to improve its operation. It benefits from the latest advancements, with a not overly large diameter, made of titanium and fitted with small gray gold weights placed externally, providing it with remarkable inertia, reliability, and regulating quality.

Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, this tiny, extremely thin spring considered the heart of the mechanical watch has been designed to keep its center of gravity precisely in the center by using a flat curve fixed on the outside of the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development. Among the numerous advantages are reduced height, improved adjustment of concentricity quality, finer balance wheel adjustment, eliminating the need for pins, and the curved shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact.

The internal structure of the material remains intact, as it has been neither stressed nor bent. Through these various tried and continually developing enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, bringing it to a total of 6 days, visible through the sapphire glass case back, allowing connoisseurs to marvel at the complexity and beauty of each component.

Equally visible and geometrically positioned relative to the caliber’s mainplate, the assembly is protected by the exclusive triple shock-absorbing system. De Bethune was the first to design a bridge held from both sides in a symmetrical manner, which keeps the balance wheel perfectly in place, and to add two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the balance wheel’s own shock absorber. Hence the name ‘triple shock absorber,’ which, with its springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes, effectively absorbs and dampens violent impacts.

The DB28XP Kind of Blue surprises with the lightweight nature of its case, entirely crafted from polished blue-tinged grade 5 titanium with a microlight caseband, mounted on mobile cradles that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist, a patented De Bethune system. A more curved caseband follows the wrist’s lines. The Microlight finish of the mainplate is echoed on the sides, extending to the outer edge of the caseband, a meticulous and challenging task to achieve in the absence of simple geometric elements. The ensemble is completed with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle.