De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, the latest in the brand’s evolving DB28 series, combines signature traits from previous models with refined elements that underscore its distinct character. Known for its floating lugs, 12 o’clock crown, and futuristic open-worked dial, this tourbillon model reflects De Bethune’s exploration of design and technical innovation. At 43mm in diameter and only 9.1mm thick, the polished titanium case of the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon blends elegance with a sleek profile, giving this new release a strikingly slim silhouette. From the hallmark delta-shaped bridge to the ultra-light tourbillon, each feature adds depth to its aesthetic.

Tracing its roots back to 2018, the DB28 Steel Wheels introduced an open-worked dial that displayed the movement’s contemporary architecture. Two years later, the DB28 Steel Wheels incorporated a tourbillon, and in 2022, the ultra-thin DB28XP Steel Wheels came onto the scene. Now, with the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, De Bethune has taken elements from each model and added new touches for a refined expression of this legendary line.

The watch dial is a blend of sculptural design and technical elements, featuring a blue microlight pattern on the titanium chapter ring inspired by the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon. This distinctive texture adds depth, with spherical polished hour markers that stand out against the satin-brushed blue and silver tones of the dial. The delta-shaped bridge, one of De Bethune’s hallmarks, extends across the dial and is adorned with the same blued microlight finish, uniting the piece’s elements under a coherent visual theme. Beneath the bridge sit twin barrels with blue microlight titanium inserts, balancing symmetry with a contemporary feel.

Positioned at 6 o’clock, De Bethune’s ultra-light tourbillon adds a hypnotic touch to the dial. At just 0.18 grams, it’s one of the lightest tourbillons ever made, completing a full rotation every 30 seconds and running at an impressive frequency of 5 Hz. The blued titanium balance wheel, a patented De Bethune feature, is equipped with white gold weights, matching the dial’s other blue accents for a cohesive look. This combination of innovative design and lightweight materials ensures precision while creating a visual statement.

The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is powered by the manual-winding Caliber DB2009V6, an evolution of the DB2009V5 with a simplified construction featuring fewer parts (275 instead of 380), which enhances efficiency and reduces weight. Fitted with self-regulating twin barrels, the movement provides an impressive 5-day power reserve, making it ideal for those who appreciate both beauty and functionality. Unlike many watches, which display the power reserve on the dial, De Bethune has chosen to position it on the case back, adding to the dial’s minimalist and uncluttered appearance.

In keeping with De Bethune’s dedication to precision, the floating lugs, designed to adapt seamlessly to the wrist, offer both comfort and stability. The case’s closed back adds an air of mystery, hinting at the complex movement within. The 43mm grade 5 titanium case is polished to a mirror finish, enhancing the watch’s lustrous look while maintaining a lightweight feel. With its sleek case design, the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon maintains a water resistance of 30 meters. This exquisite timepiece is available with either a classic blue alligator strap or a modern textile strap in the same hue.