Holthinrichs Ornament Nouveau

The world of watchmaking has a newcomer prepared to add the ‘haute’ into haute horologie with the introduction of the Holthinrichs Ornament Nouveau. Hailing from the unlikely watchmaking hub of the Netherlands, Michiel Holthinrichs, the visionary founder of Holthinrichs Watches, has launched a technically impressive and aesthetically captivating timepiece—the Ornament Nouveau. Inspired by the soul-stirring essence of Art Nouveau and Modernist architecture, transcends conventional and contemporary techniques with the fusion of cutting-edge 3D printing technology and meticulous manual finishing.

This project, born in 2017, showcases the inaugural in-house movement encased in a spectacular, unprecedented sculptural design. The inspiration is deeply rooted in Art Nouveau and Early Modernist architecture. Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, the pioneer of Art Nouveau, harnessed modern technologies to redefine architectural principles, ushering in an era of slender structures and breathtaking spatial design. This marked the birth of Modern architecture.

Despite its simple timekeeping function, displaying only hours and minutes, the movement is exceptionally complex in its execution. At a mere 4mm thick, it achieves maximum three-dimensionality through intricate machining and extensive hand finishing. The brass main plate features a double concave shape, creating a striking optical three-dimensional effect. Available in four galvanic finishes—18K gold, 18K rose gold, white rhodium, or black rhodium – the main plate serves as a foundation for organically shaped stainless steel bridges that cantilever above the movement’s centre. Meticulously crafted as miniature sculptures with multiple interacting three-dimensional surfaces, these bridges are adorned with contrasting textures and anglage for maximum visual depth.

The centrepiece of the movement is the in-house developed variable inertia balance wheel, suspended within a remarkable three-dimensional glass bridge dubbed the “Holthinbridge.” A unique cast-iron-like object bridge anchors a specially developed dial for the Ornament Nouveau. This innovative dial is crafted from UV-sensitive photochromic material, a first in the industry. The dial transitions to a smoked black hue under UV light, safeguarding the movement’s oils while adding a playful element to the watch. Indoors, the observer can admire the intricate sculptural movement, while outdoors, the dial transforms into a classic timepiece, subtly concealing the inner mechanics and highlighting the sculptural case.

The Ornament Nouveau’s three-dimensional form demanded an equally exceptional strap. Inspired by nature’s organic beauty, the choice of the often-overlooked yet stunning tail section of the alligator is the perfect material. Its intricate scales offer unparalleled depth and luxury, while its durability ensures exceptional performance. Collaboration with three esteemed ateliers resulted in an unparalleled masterpiece.

The case, a marvel of innovation, features unique double-curved surfaces that gracefully flow from the lugs to the caseband. The organically shaped lugs, inspired by both Art Nouveau and nature, are ingeniously connected to the case body. These intricate, openwork structures could only be realized through the latest advancements in high-end 3D metal printing. The complex 3D printing process begins by filling the printing chamber with uniformly sized titanium grade 5 particles. The nozzle then deposits a binder to create layers of 50 µm thickness, forming the case over 24 hours. Subsequent sintering at 1300 degrees Celsius fuses the metal particles, creating the watch case.

To showcase the Ornament Nouveau’s delicate and complex design, a playful and airy openwork sculpture inspired by architecture was created. Crafted from stainless steel using selective laser melting, another advanced 3D printing technology, this sculpture gracefully embraces the timepiece. It serves both as an art object and a protective display for the Ornament Nouveau, encased in a hand-blown glass dome. Clients and retailers can commission these sculptures to complement their timepieces.