Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Snake”

To celebrate the 2025 Chinese New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Snake’, a limited-edition timepiece showcasing the exceptional skills of the master artisans in the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares™ atelier. This release continues the Reverso series dedicated to the Chinese Zodiac, following previous editions that paid homage to the Tiger and Dragon. The new timepiece is a tribute to the snake, an animal that symbolises longevity, wisdom, and mystery in traditional Chinese culture.

The Reverso, originally created in 1931 with its distinctive swivelling case designed to protect the dial during polo matches, has evolved into a canvas for artistic expression. The blank metal case-back, perfect for intricate decoration, has allowed artisans to explore engraving, enamelling, and other crafts. The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Snake’ adds a new chapter to this rich tradition, displaying artistry at its finest.

Turning the watch to its reverse reveals a strikingly detailed hand-engraved snake emerging from golden clouds (750/1000) set against a background of glossy black Grand Feu enamel. The engraver used modelled engraving, a technique requiring precise control and dexterity, to create a sense of depth and movement. The snake’s scales, hand-drawn with black rhodium, and the polished surfaces contrast with the sandblasted texture of the clouds, creating a dynamic, light-reflective effect. This engraving process is particularly challenging as it began on a surface already coated with Grand Feu enamel, demanding exacting precision to prevent damage to the enamel. The master engraver dedicated 80 hours of work, employing 10 chisels of varying sizes to achieve this masterpiece.

The dial of the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Snake’ complements the case-back, sharing the same deep black Grand Feu enamel finish. The dial showcases the elegant simplicity of the Art Deco-inspired Reverso Tribute design, featuring faceted appliqué hour-markers, a chemin de fer minutes track, and Dauphine hands.

The black enamel’s richness and uniformity are achieved through five to six layers, each requiring a cycle of firing and cooling. This intricate process, which spans 24 hours (16 for the case-back and 8 for the dial), ensures a flawless, radiant finish. The surfaces are then polished for half a day to attain a perfect sheen. Achieving a consistent match in colour and purity between the dial and the case-back underscores the artisans’ extensive skill, honed through years of experience. Jaeger-LeCoultre remains one of the few Manufactures to house an in-house enamelling atelier, preserving and advancing this centuries-old craft.

Grand Feu enamelling is known for its complexity and unpredictability during the firing process. Achieving a black of such depth and brilliance requires meticulous layering, with each layer subjected to intense heat and gradual cooling. The enamel’s outcome is never entirely certain, making this process one that demands significant expertise and patience. The result is a piece that exemplifies the dedication of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s enamel masters and the Manufacture’s commitment to maintaining this rare art form.