Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon ‘Poinçon de Genève’ Plique-à-jour

Demonstrating its prowess in colour, design, and horology, the Parisian brand has introduced the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour, a detailed timepiece featuring a translucent dial crafted using a historical enamelling technique. The Louis Vuitton Voyager has been a versatile platform since the Voyager GMT debuted in 2016. It has evolved into a minute repeater, been adorned with gemstones, and been skeletonized. Now, for the first time, it features enamel, specifically the Plique-à-jour technique, which dates back to the 6th century Byzantine Empire.

Plique-à-jour, meaning “letting in daylight” in French, involves applying enamel to the dial’s V-motif frame using capillary action. Each layer is fired, and it takes over 100 hours to complete a dial. Unlike other enamelling techniques, Plique-à-jour does not use a backing, resulting in a glossy, translucent dial that is uniquely vibrant and allows a glimpse of the movement.

The dial is straightforward with blue and clear enamel filling the V motifs. A bright blue circle at 12 o’clock displays the time with simple lumed hands, and at 6 o’clock, a large aperture reveals the flying tourbillon with its “V” cage. The Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) is displayed at 9 o’clock, indicating that the watch meets strict standards for assembly, adjustment, and casing in Geneva. While some might find this placement unnecessary, it certifies the high quality and craftsmanship of the watch.

The case of the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-jour is made from platinum 950 and 18k white gold, with sapphire crystals on both sides. Measuring 41mm in diameter and 11.68mm thick, the watch features a distinctive circle-in-a-square design, introduced in 2016. This design now feels more familiar, especially with the similar H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner. The case combines polished and brushed finishes, creating the illusion of a two-piece case. The watch is paired with a navy blue calf strap and a platinum folding buckle, and it offers a water resistance of 50 meters, an improvement over previous models.

The Poinçon de Genève standards do not specify the manufacturing of components. While the watch is finished in Geneva by La Fabrique du Temps, there are no claims about the origin of the parts. The hand-wound LV 104 movement, debuting in 2016, consists of 168 hand-finished parts and has a power reserve of 80 hours at 21,600 vph. The slower beat rate allows the one-minute tourbillon’s V to glide smoothly as it rotates.

Despite the quiet period following the Tambour launch, Louis Vuitton has proven it remains committed to incorporating its signature V branding in a fun, artistic, and technical timepiece. The Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour reassures that the playful and creative spirit of LV watches continues to thrive.