Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph

In 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier reintroduced its significant Toric collection, a line that marks the brand’s original entry into high horology during the 1990s. The latest additions to this lineup are the Toric Petite Seconde and the limited-edition Toric Chronograph Rattrapante. While the Petite Seconde comes in platinum or rose gold, the Chronograph Rattrapante takes centre stage with an exclusive release of only 30 pieces.

The Toric Chronograph Rattrapante features a 42.5mm rose gold case, sized up to house the complex split-second chronograph mechanism. It maintains a thickness of 14.4mm and integrates curved spring bars for an enhanced fit between the case and the Nubuck leather strap. This change addresses the space between older models’ cases and straps, contributing to a seamless wrist feel. The design preserves the collection’s trademark doric column-inspired fluted bezel and adds a refined visual connection with the updated Tonda PF series. The shorter lugs and sharply dropping leather strap, detailed with “punto a mano” stitching, ensure a comfortable fit on various wrist sizes.

The warm, earthy umber tone of the dial pairs elegantly with the rose gold case, creating a sophisticated palette. Founder Michel Parmigiani’s use of an ancient graining technique comes to life here, involving meticulous hand-brushing and polishing to achieve a deep, matte texture. This hand-grained finish plays with light, giving the dial depth and complementing its understated elegance. The sub-dials for the chronograph are integrated into the main dial without clutter, slightly recessed to preserve a harmonious design. Minute details, including the tiny font and hands, ensure legibility without overpowering the minimalistic layout. The dial also features petite, curved indices that align with the sloped “chevé” profile, guiding the eye naturally to the centre.

Parmigiani Fleurier’s PF361-SLIM calibre powers the Chronograph Rattrapante, continuing the lineage of the brand’s high-calibre movements. First showcased in the 2016 Chronor Anniversaire and now present in the Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph, this 18k rose gold movement boasts a 65-hour power reserve and operates with a dual-column wheel system. The rattrapante complication allows for precise timing and split-second measurements, reinforcing the piece’s high-horology status. The movement, with its 28,800 vibrations per hour frequency, features skeletonised bridges to reveal the intricate mechanics beneath. The satin-finished rose gold bridges contrast against the openwork to highlight the movement’s complexity, blending technical mastery with visual appeal.

The back of the watch showcases the movement through a sapphire crystal caseback, revealing the detailed craftsmanship of the bridges and mainplate. The bridges incorporate the finger-style design, characteristic of the Vallée de Joux, but with a modern twist. These bridges are horizontally aligned, presenting a layered, stepped shape that seems to flow across the gears and balance wheel. This design creates depth and volume, demonstrating Parmigiani’s commitment to both traditional and modern watchmaking techniques. Each bridge has double bevels, with raised, frosted borders and an interior marked by a distinctive hand-engraved texture. The mainplate, also frosted by hand, supports the movement’s cohesion.

Signature details such as the circular-grained ratchet wheel with bevelled spokes, the polished click, and the S-slot screws speak to the brand’s attention to detail. The mainspring barrel’s lid features snailing decoration, adding a touch of elegance to the mechanical elements. On the exterior, the platinum pushers mirror the oval shape of the PF logo on the dial, reinforcing design consistency. The crown, positioned at 2 o’clock, facilitates easy winding and time-setting, freeing up wrist space for enhanced comfort. This strategic placement, combined with the fluted crown design, adds to the watch’s visual allure.

The case and bracelet are aligned in their craftsmanship. The 18k rose gold case contrasts satin-finished and polished surfaces, while the integrated lugs create a seamless transition to the leather strap. The bracelet follows this continuity, with hand-finished links featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces.