Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Patek Philippe has reintroduced its iconic Golden Ellipse wristwatch, this time featuring a newly designed chain-style bracelet that merges classic elegance with modern innovation. The new Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 showcases a case and bracelet crafted in rose gold, paired with an ebony-black sunburst dial. The dial’s slender hour markers and hands, also in rose gold, stand out against the dark background, creating a refined, timeless aesthetic.

The Golden Ellipse, known for its distinctive elliptical shape inspired by the golden ratio, first debuted in 1968 with a yellow gold case and blue gold dial. Over the years, it has appeared in various colours and materials. In 2008, for its 40th anniversary, Patek Philippe introduced a larger model in platinum, followed by a rose gold version in 2018. The new 2024 model continues this evolution by bringing back a key feature of the original collection: the chain-style bracelet.

In the early years after its launch, the Golden Ellipse was available with several types of chain bracelets, including the milanais-style bracelet of Reference 3548 and the polonais-style bracelet of Reference 3605. These bracelets, along with other distinctive designs, contributed to the model’s status as a flagship watch during the 1970s. The reintroduction of the chain bracelet with the latest Golden Ellipse model is a nod to this creative heritage, while also addressing the technical limitations of the earlier designs.

Patek Philippe’s new chain bracelet in 18K rose gold is the result of 15 years of development. It consists of 363 components, including over 300 links, each assembled by hand. The patented construction allows for easy adjustment of the bracelet’s length, ensuring both comfort and elegance. The clasp, adorned with an engraved motif that matches the bracelet’s design, offers three adjustment notches for a tailored fit.

The design of the dial remains true to the spirit of the Golden Ellipse. The ebony-black sunburst finish is complemented by baton-style hour markers and cheveu-style hands, both crafted in rose gold. A black onyx cabochon set into the crown adds a final touch of sophistication. Inside the 5738/1R-001 is Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin calibre 240, a self-winding movement with an off-centre mini-rotor made of 22K gold. The calibre’s design allows for a remarkably slim case, just 5.9 mm thick, making this model the slimmest in the brand’s regular collection.

This latest addition to the Golden Ellipse line joins other models in the collection, including the platinum Reference 5738P-001, the rose gold Reference 5738R-001, and the Rare Handcrafts Reference 5738/51G-001.

Throughout its history, Patek Philippe has been known for its innovative metal bracelets, particularly those developed in the late 1960s and 1970s. These bracelets, whether chain or mechanical, have always been crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Chain bracelets are made from individual links shaped by artisan chainsmiths, while mechanical bracelets are produced from metal bars on CNC machines before being assembled and finished by hand.

The new chain-style bracelet introduced with the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 combines the best of both approaches. Parts are manufactured using advanced CNC technology, then assembled and finished by hand, drawing on the expertise of traditional artisan chainsmiths. The result is a bracelet that reflects both modern precision and timeless craftsmanship, perfectly complementing the elegant design of the Golden Ellipse.