Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection
Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art—Tribute to Traditional Symbols collection features limited-edition watches inspired by ancient Chinese motifs, crafted through expert cloisonné enameling. ShareIn an exquisite fusion of art, culture, and horology, Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art—Tribute to Traditional Symbols series dives deep into the mystique of ancient Chinese symbolism. The series introduces four limited-edition watches created in collaboration with Mr. Song, Former Associate Research Librarian at Beijing’s Palace Museum in the Forbidden City. This collection showcases the “Seawater Cliff” motif, a decorative symbol from the Ming and Qing dynasties, paying homage to Imperial Chinese culture.
The Métiers d’Art—Tribute to Traditional Symbols series transports wearers back to the cultural richness of China’s last two Imperial dynasties, spanning the 14th to the early 20th centuries. Vacheron Constantin’s focus on the decorative arts, especially the “Seawater Cliff” motif, draws inspiration from its prevalence in imperial court architecture, furniture, porcelain, and dragon robes. These intricately embroidered garments symbolized prosperity and status, often adorned by members of the Imperial family. The motif is characterized by towering cliffs being lashed by ocean waves, representing the steadfastness of the emperor amidst life’s challenges.
Mr. Song’s deep knowledge of Chinese history and symbolism informed the Maison’s study of this motif, guiding the creation of the dials for these limited editions. Extensively researched and meticulously documented, the “Seawater Cliff” motif embodies a mountain standing resilient against crashing waves, an auspicious symbol worn on imperial robes for centuries.
Water and mountains have been integral themes in Chinese art dating back to the Neolithic period, gradually evolving into more figurative forms by the first millennium AD. However, it was during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties that the “Seawater Cliff” motif truly emerged. Officially named during Emperor Wanli’s reign (1573-1620), this motif was reserved for the Imperial family and became a defining feature of Chinese culture. The waves, represented as undulating lines, crash powerfully against cliffs, symbolizing the emperor’s enduring stability and governance over the empire.
In Chinese language and culture, “tide” and “dynasty” are homophones, while “cliff” can also signify “ginger buds,” whose forms are depicted at the cliff’s edge. As the motif grew popular, it spread across social classes and became a staple in furniture, decorative objects, and architecture. Housed in a 38 mm 18K pink or white gold case, the watches are powered by the in-house Calibre 2460, chosen for its aesthetic appeal and compact dimensions. This movement features central hours and minutes hands, offering a clear, unobstructed display of the intricate dial artwork. With a 40-hour power reserve and the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva certification, this calibre ensures both high performance and horological expertise. The 22K gold rotor is intricately engraved with wave and tide motifs, resonating with the symbolism of the dial.
One of the standout models in this series depicts the “Seawater Cliff” motif through cloisonné enamelling, set against a starry night sky. The mountains, bordered by vegetation resembling ginger buds, are surrounded by tidal waves. The vivid colours and traditional Chinese aesthetics make this piece a remarkable example of cloisonné enamelling, a technique deeply rooted in Chinese craftsmanship. Also known as Jingtai Blue, this method reached its peak during Emperor Jingtai’s era in the Ming dynasty.
Creating the intricate “Seawater Cliff” motif involves placing 220 gold wires, requiring more than 50 hours of meticulous work. The enamelling process follows in layers, each colour fired in a kiln before moving to the next. It takes an additional 70 hours to achieve the piece’s signature rich hues. The final polishing highlights the golden cloisonné that shapes the motif, while a translucent enamel coating brings a unique glow to the detailed composition. The bezel, entirely hand-engraved, features a bat motif. In Chinese, the word for “bat” shares its pronunciation with “happiness,” making it a symbol of good fortune. In traditional Chinese design, five bats often represent the “Five Good Fortunes”: longevity, wealth, stability, virtue, and happiness. The engraver delicately renders the bat as a continuous frieze, capturing its characteristic silhouette in successive volutes.
The second interpretation of the “Seawater Cliff” motif emphasizes depth and monochromatic elegance. Crafted in 18K white or pink gold, the dial features hollowed waves, blue enamel sections, and diamond-set accents on the mountain ranges. Multiple techniques, including Grand Feu enamelling, engraving, and champlevé, combine to create this composition, giving the motif a subtle yet distinct aesthetic.
The dial is divided into three sections. The first represents the sea, rendered in deep-blue Grand Feu enamel applied in successive layers and kiln-fired. The engraving technique highlights the waves, with white enamel filling the furrows to create a shadow effect, mimicking a sea in motion. The second section, representing the sea tides, is hand-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, evoking slivers of moonlight. The third section adds dimension with raised mountains, engraved with champlevé enamel to enhance the perspective. The bezel is adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds, echoing the moonlight glow captured in the dial’s diamond settings, completing the refined and harmonious design.